It's the ideal time to make a multibean salad, a fresh from-scratch
rendition of the three-can all-American standby. I grew up on the
canned version, but aside from a certain nostalgia for it, the fresh
approach always seems far preferable.
Here, the green beans are briefly cooked, combined with tender shell
beans and tossed in a sharp vinaigrette that sets off their
sweetness. To make a simple summer meal, you need add only hard-cooked
eggs and a few slices of prosciutto or some grilled chicken.
For this bean salad, I add charred red onion and toasted marjoram, but
the recipe is really just a template. A handful of chopped mint and
dill is just as good. The possibilities for improvisation are endless.
A few sprigs fresh marjoram or 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley.
PREPARATION
To make the vinaigrette, stir together vinegar, mustard and garlic
in small bowl. Add a good pinch of salt and pepper, then whisk in
olive oil. Taste for seasoning, then set aside.
Shuck and cook the fresh shelling beans. If using fava beans,
blanch in boiling water for 1 minute, then rinse in cool water. Peel
the outer skin from each bean and set aside. If using butterbeans or
cranberry beans, simmer in lightly salted water to cover. They should
be tender in about 30 minutes. Let shelling beans cool in their
cooking water. (May be cooked ahead.)
Cook the green beans, romano beans and wax beans separately. Simmer
each type in lightly salted water for 3 to 5 minutes, until just
tender. Spread them out on plates to cool to room temperature.
Heat a dry cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Lay onion
slices in the skillet and let them char and soften slightly on one
side, about 5 minutes. Turn and char the other side. Set aside to
cool. Toast marjoram on the hot skillet until it chars slightly, about
one minute, then remove. (You may char the onions and marjoram on an
outdoor grill or under the broiler.)
To assemble the salad, drain the shell beans (reserve liquid for
another purpose) and put them in a large serving bowl. Add cooked
green beans and charred onions. Season with salt and pepper. Add
vinaigrette and toss well. Crumble marjoram and sprinkle over
salad. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.