Step
|
Time
|
Procedure
|
| Developer |
2 min |
- Constant agitation
- If two or more prints at a time are processed, rotate individual prints from bottom to top.
- If developer starts to darken (and your prints do not develop fully), replace chemical.
- Mix 1 cup of vinegar with 1 gallon of developer to neutralize and dispose down drain.
Rinse sink and drain with water.
|
| Stop Bath |
30 sec. |
- Agitage continuously
- Stop bath should be yellow in color. When it starts to darken and turn purple-blue, replace.
- Down the drain. Rinse sink and drain with water.
|
| Fixer |
5 to 10 min |
- Intermittent agitation.
- Paper no longer light sensitive after this process.
- One drop of Hypo-check to see if exhausted. If hypo-check milkens/whitens, fix is exhausted.
- Do not dispose down the drain.
- Put fixer in the designated storage tanks. Use a funnel.
- Replace Hypo-clear as well
|
| Water Bath |
indefinitely |
- Trickle of water when there are prints.
- You can keep your prints in water indefinitely until you are done printing and ready to wash.
|
Perma-wash
(Hypo-clear) |
3 min |
- Constant agitation.
- Rotate individual prints from bottom to top.
|
| Wash |
20 min for archival prints, 10 min for work prints |
- Keep the wash flow low (20 - 30) so as not to kink the edges.
- After wash, squeegee print, dry on rack. Dry your fiber prints face down. (This reduces curling.)
|
| Clean up |
|
- Rinse everything you used.
- Turn off water.
- Wash your tray and dry with towel and return to proper location.
- Turn off enlarger
- Put everything back in place.
- If you were the last one printing, wash tongs, cover chemical trays with plexiglass.
|